Friday, June 17, 2011

Open Source Sunnyside Topo

A few weeks ago I stumbled upon a neat bit of open-source software called BetaFlash. It's a simple drawing program with standardized elements for climbing topos. Nice idea! I decided to give it a spin.

At the time Fred put out his last guidebook Sunnyside was relatively new and developments were happening fast. There are a fair number of nice lines not captured in the topos. So using my shaky mental image of the crag along with the new routes thread, I sketched up this:

Not perfect by any means... but it's just a model right?

I figure the intent of a topo is to allow you to navigate to the start of the route... the description should tell you what you need to know about the climbing and gear. So the bolt counts are wrong, the rap stations aren't all there, and the orbiting crags (Farside and Darkside) aren't included. But it's a start.

If anyone is interested in improving this work that would be great! You can download the file I was working with HERE and make whatever changes are for the better. I'd also expect this would be a nice tool to use for newer areas like Cedar Pt. and Kingston.

Cheers.

Monday, June 6, 2011

Dover

Went to Dover over the weekend with a strong crew from the club. Years of avoiding this place came to an end.  Bouldering is somewhat cool I guess. Managed to send a few problems and took a few pictures. Highlights for me were topping out The Bear, running laps on Orgasmatron, and eventually sending The Wave after about a dozen ugly-looking tries.

It was pretty impressive to see the power that the ocean commands over the blocks at this place. We saw spots where house-sized boulders were picked up and either carried uphill or completely away by the surf. It was pretty unreal. I was pretty disappointed to see Orangutan smashed away but we found a newly created double-arete near the John Doe area which made up for it somewhat. I thought I may have bagged the FA of it but I guess not. It was new enough to still have holds crumbling and breaking off on us... and you wouldn't expect that for a super-aesthetic V1 boulder in a well-traveled area.  Get on it... it looks like this:

Just don't fall.

O.k so I have got my better pictures posted here... but these are my selections:

The basecamp... before we torched the creosote wood!
Brent... Agent Orange - V0 highball

Melissa... Orange Arete - V2 sloper problem

Cara on The A-Frame, a nice V1 crack

Tom, both feet cut loose from the The Bear, V4
Tom. Orgasmatron. V0. This should go on for 300'. 
Pete wrestling with Orange Crush V6. Loving the Jihadi look!
Franca reaching for the better pinch on The Bear, V4

Sunday, May 29, 2011

Tree-Go

Assembled a stellar crew today to head to the Tree-Go rope course today with me on Jill's birthday! Thanks everybody. Super fun. We rocked it for sure!