Monday, March 21, 2011


I have not posted anything in a while.

I guess the time past has mostly been training. I've committed myself for an attempt at El Cap in September so as of January I've been training as best I can. It's been going pretty well. Thus far I've been focusing on general fitness and basic wall skills.

Over the past few months I've been able to trim about 15 lbs by using Lance Armstrong's site to track the fuel that goes in the engine, along with weekly cardio at lunch times and 8 weeks of Cara's pilates classes. I'd like to loose at least 10 more to be in fighting shape for this summer. I'm not rushing it... but I notice the difference for sure, especially climbing at Gage where I normally fail due to pump.

Yeah Gage... Hennigar and I have monopolized that place every Thursday turning it into our big wall training complex. We look a bit absurd showing up to the gym with pulleys, ladders, and jugs. We've been practicing a session where we aid a pitch, set up an anchor, pull and coil 4 ropes, set up a haul, haul (each other), and get down. In the 6 sessions or so we've done we've both cut our times in half. It's all about less thinking about what to do and more doing it. Also organizing belays... super important.
Henni during a wall training session at Gage

Other than that, last weekend was my first rock climbing of the year. Terry and I put in a good day in Welsford soaking in the sun all over L-shape. Dry climbing on warm rock on a day where the forecast high was +1. Lots of huge ice and rock falling all over with the warm sun. Also 2 peregrines sighted above Astroboy. We climbed a few free routes and then Terry actually volunteered to belay me as I aided Snakepeel. A strait-forward aid was made much more enjoyable by trying out a few moves on the cam hook and another on the skyhook. Sweet!

Terry having a go at jugging a fixed line