Sunday, March 31, 2013

Everybody Loves March Climbing

It's been a while since an update. My last laptop was busted and I've been away from climbing for a few weeks. I've been working on a few topos for the new climbing guidebook too. However... that's changing with the season. Today was perfect March climbing conditions. T-shirt weather all day at Cochrane lane.

The project for the day was to gather up more photos for the guide on some classics. Dom and I both zipped up Smither's, which is a genuinely enjoyable pure slab for at least 30 feet. After that, we checked out Mantle Piece, a newly restored route on the L-shape just left of Sparky Start. Cleaned last fall by Shawn B., this line is worth a go for sure. As an old, dirty, run-out moderate it was seldom climbed; but that has now changed. It looks as if a lot of effort went into cleaning this and the line now supports 2 bolts protecting face sections. I'd give it a star for sure. It finishes on what is now surely the most crowded belay anchor in Welsford shared by at least 6 independent climbs at the locus of activity in the area. It's the only place in N.B. where you'll ever have to think about anchor etiquette with another party. Funny thing is just 4-5 years ago (before the cleaning of Waterwalk area) that same ledge was almost never used.

We moved on and managed to snag some shots of several strong women at the right end. Melissa B. punched through the strait-in thin crack of Snakepeel in good style. Right beside her was Kristen taking on her first lead of It's a Way of Life. Well done!

Dom wanted to get some pictures of the Trouble with Lichen, a hard mixed climb down at Exfoliated. I rapped in and watched him cruise it. He even nailed the 5.11+++ crux twice in order to give me a better chance of getting a pic. Afterwards I tried it on top rope. Great climb... too bad I ain't a great climber. I got shut down pretty hard at the dead-point.

... and oh yeah... if that doesn't interest you, here's some puppy glam!

Hope you're enjoying the spring.