Saturday, June 23, 2012

100 Pitches

On Thursday (the day after the solstice) after work I went up to Cochrane lane packed into a car of 5. I lead my 100th pitch of the year and also managed to score a ride up Pink Panther with Dom. It's been at least 5 years since I was on this line and it wasn't as hard as I remember it being. Dom showed me some good gear and beta through the crux. It's very approachable... really a few move wonder... and it's a pretty rad line.
Liam leading through the Pink Panther crux. Or is he?
Top-rope revealed.
We also watched Aaron work on Inhuman Eraser... making excellent progress. Just don't try to talk to him while he's leading hard stuff.

"Ahh sh*t... I just 'effed myself" - Aaron

Friday, June 15, 2012

Important Sunnyside Beta

Having spent the last couple of weeks cycling... last night was high time for an evening session climbing. At Sunnyside, I met up with Terry & Melissa. The bugs were almost non-existent for the time of year, and the breeze strong.

Since I was the 3rd wheel, I had a few other objectives to the evening... namely taking some photos and recording some measurements to add more precision to my topo. I got done what I wanted. I also managed to work Dihelio some more. Still no success getting through the crux but I did manage a few more moves above bolt 4... so there's hope. 

Finished the evening on Stairway to Heaven as the sun set. I also managed to learn some important beta on this line that will make it into the next guidebook if I can help it. 

Terry (verbatim): "The thing about this route is that it's a good place to mack on chicks. I once brought this girl up here to this ledge and I pulled out a nice bottle of wine and some cheese. Seriously, I lead up with it all in my pack."

Me (dumbstuck): "I actually believe that you did that man."

Important beta for sure.

Anyway... a few pics of Melissa leading up Fai Tois Pa Mal