Rhythm Sticks

After climbing in Welsford now regularly for almost a decade, I still haven't been up all the quality routes... not even all the nice moderates. Yesterday after topping out on Whiter Shade of Pale, Pete and I scrambled across to find Rhythm Sticks. I cannot believe that I'd never touched this before. This route offers a true Welsford variety of styles: huge flakes to a strait-in jamming crack to a chimney. It tops out on the detached totem pole at the apex of the L-shape for an exposed finish. If the crag had a summit... I suppose this would be it. You couldn't ask for anything better. If you've been putting this route, as I was, go get on it. Do it quick before the house-of-cards style flakes at the base decide to give out. A few were pretty wobbly. 

Pete cleaning the final chimney 

On our way down from the totem I stopped to shoot a few frames of Francois C. making a successful onsight of Bone Machine. Great job... it didn't look like you even broke a sweat. 

Artwork For Ascent NB

For many of my readers, 'Ascent NB' is an idea that I hope you've heard of somewhere already. With any luck, and with some community support, it should soon be a reality. It aims to become an advocacy group for all climbers within the province, with a strong focus on securing access. 

With the launch and first AGM of that organization coming soon, I've been asked to draft some original artwork and a logo for the organization. Something that we can put in online media... and maybe bang onto a few t-shirts (everybody loves t-shirts). 

At this point... I need feedback.  I've got a few ideas, all very different. What do you like / dislike?  What are the elements or style considerations that make you prefer one over the other? Please let me know your reaction.  I'm looking to hear what you like best if you had to design something yourself.  

Thanks for the help.  

Now... the short-list: 

Cochrane Lane Classics Challenge 2013

Rules:

• Time begins when you leave the ground in the morning
• Do as many pitches as possible in 8-hours
• All routes must be led, and must be classic (at least 1 thumb-up in the guide)
• No simul-climbing... no soloing

With permission from my terrific wife and son, I gave it a crack on Sunday.

Sonia and I traded leads all day and managed to zip up a lot of quality routes. With all of the options to choose from and with the friendly format, this is a challenge that's approachable for almost any competent team. We set a goal of at least 8-10 pitches... but Sonia did mention a target of 12 before we got underway. 

3.. 2... 1... Go!

We ended up with 14 pitches in 7h 45m

A few tips for other parties who might be considering this as a great way to push their efficiency. 

• Climbing fast... and especially leading fast, isn't going to get you there. That's 50% at absolute most. 
• Choose routes you know and/or that you are confident on. 
• Choose the correct piece for the crack the first time.
• Don't get your cams stuck, and don't death-set your nut placements. 
• If you can serve multiple classic lines with the same anchor... do it. 
• Avoid crowds
• Manage the rope at all times. Kinks, lost rope-ends, knots - all time killers. 
• Maximize lower-offs and minimize raps. 
• Drink water. Eat food. Use anti-inflammatory pills if you're old. 

Don't forget the victory beer.

That was our formula and it got us better results that we expected. We'd have had another pitch or two if we'd eaten food while belaying and if my fitness was a bit better. Thanks for being a stellar partner for this Sonia. This will be something to repeat year-after-year.