Tuesday, August 16, 2011

A Friend in Town

... is a great excuse to go climbing. With Anders back from Norway for a two week stint in Fredericton we took off to Welsford as soon as he was over his jet-lag.

Apparently all the grades in Welsford are sandbagged... so I can't wait to head to Lofoten! Apparently I hear that a new guidebook is to be published soon!

Climbed a good day at Minkey and Upper Tier. At the tree anchor on Smokin' Crack I found a really amusing set up: 3 bomber lockers through 4 old sketchy slings. I bootied the newly added 3rd locker. Not needed. I will bring some new tat next time I'm there however... as all the existing stuff is pretty baked.

At the Upper Tier I got on the Waltz for the first time. This had some really great climbing on it. I found the crux pretty tricky and hung several times figuring it out. Placing the gear through the layback was awkward but not all that bad. I've got to suggest that the bolts could be better placed. The crux comes as your feet are above the first bolt and before the second is clipped. It was a heady situation. I ended up backing down to the bolt for several tries before I got the sequence. I think if I had of bombed on the first bolt it would have been difficult for Anders to keep me off the ground with a combination of a hard catch and him being pulled up. This first bolt hanger was also spinning but otherwise in good shape. Whenever it is up for rebolting I think they should either be relocated higher (and stick clipped) or a 3rd added.

Also... I found on the trail at the Upper Tier a Garmin heart rate monitor. I'm told it pairs up to a fancy watch and makes a system. If you've lost it... contact me.


  1. thanks for a great day, chris!
    PS. the new guidebook is for the trondheim/tr√łndelag area, not for lofoten! the lofoten guidebook is very good and available from http://www.rockfax.com/publications/books/item.php?id=133

  2. Oops. So I still want to get that PDF you were talking about!