Thursday, March 22, 2012

Evening Climbing in March... in T-shirts? WTF!

This week has been pretty wrong in terms of weather. +22 degrees on March 21st? I shouldn't be thinking about after work Sunnyside sessions for another month... but here we are. Yesterday Marcelle and I took advantage of the opportunity.

The hike in is a joke. The ice of last week is completely gone... as is any snow in the woods. With Sunnyside usually seeping from snow-melt well into April this year it's almost completely dry as of today. There we even mosquitoes out? We climbed all night in t-shirts. That just ain't right for the time of year. 

We were joined by a crowd of beautiful women. Sadly, there were no young hot-shot dudes there to impress them... no doubt they were all crushing their sick problems back at the gym. On the flip side, I was quite impressed with several ladies pushing their own limits and becoming proficient leaders. Well done!
Melissa C leading through the tricky start of Little Bones
As for Marcelle and I, we got all of our objectives for the night accomplished: 
  • I got a clean lead of Quantum Theory and we installed a new set of perma-biners at the busy anchor shared between it and Fai Tois Pa Mal
  • Started a project for myself on Dihelio. Feels pretty doable up till the 4th bolt and then it seems like I just ain't getting it? Got any beta for me? Marcelle crushed up to the same spot I did so we both need beta!
  • We climbed 5 lines in 3 hours... which ain't bad considering my extended hang-dog session on Dihelio
  • Finished up the evening by climbing Stairway to Heaven completely by headlamp. 


  1. WOWsers is right Chris! What an incredible amount of 'summer' weather! I climbed Tuesday, Wednesday AND Thursday {and have a nice little burn to show for it}...ironically, I did NOT return home from Nevada with a similiar burn...making me realize I wish I had a crystal ball for weather :)
    Great to hear about all the super sending powers this early "SUMMER" in March has provided! I love it!!!

  2. My favorite part of the night was the headlamp finish on Stairway to Heaven. You've convinced me that it's the perfect way to end a climbing trip to Sunnyside. Thanks :)

  3. @Marcelle- Yep... totally a great way to squeeze in another pitch!

    @Stacey- Your ability to climb every day that it's nice makes us all quite green with envy.

    1. Oh look at me hehe!
      Went back last night for another SS session with Terry and led Gamma Burst and Fais Toi Pas Mal. Was feeling much better than the first night LOL! I hope this weather is what is to come for the rest of the season!!

    2. Excellent work Melissa. Both of those can be pumpy climbs and FTPM has a committing top-out. You're moving along quickly. You're going to a rope-gun pretty soon at that rate!

  4. Dihelio Beta. From the jugs you clip the 4th bolt with move straight up on a horrible crimp. Match around there. Get your feet up. find the right hand gaston (hard to find) . Move your right foot way right on the Ra jib. Stem like a madman and use the really good crimp with right hand to clip 5th bolt from. switch your right hand to the horrible crimp to the right of the good crimp. Bring left hand on the good crimp. Hold the barndoor. Then bump left hand on sidepull/jug thing. Done.

    You may think I'm a freak but I've sent that route too many times hehe...

  5. So many variations for Dihelio beta... Sounds like I do it completely different than Dom but I also climb it differently than everyone else I've seen on it (likely due to my reach, or lack there of). I do about four hand swaps on the crimps/slopers (top left and necessary for me to get them in the right position) before heading out right off the arĂȘte (hand first). I'm sure you'll do it differently but enjoy the process, it's a fun climb. :)

    And Dom, I just read your post about last weekend's car fiasco... wow. Glad you got out in one piece (both you and the car, hehe).

    - Holly

  6. Thanks Holly, I'm willing to give both approaches a try. It was getting dark so I wasn't spotting any more crimpers on the arete above the horizontal. Cheers.