Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Glebe Ice

A lot about ice conditions can change in a few weeks. Right after I wrote about the great ice formation in the early season the weather took a turn for the worse. I won't make that mistake again. A few weeks of positive temperatures and rain wrecked most of the ice in the province. The only exceptions were the ice gullies of the Waterford area: Parlee and Glebe.

Sunday Stef and I went to Glebe. We drove in as far as we could with his 4x4 and snow chains cutting the hike in half. Plenty of climbers in there (a dozen or so) for a remote area. We actually waited in line for ice routes!

Mike D. leading what looks like a killer steep pitch. You need to remind yourself that snow doesn't stick to vertical ice. 

After trading a few leads on the slabby fat stuff we made for the main entertainment of the day. Stef hucked himself at what I think was 'The Cardinal's Realm' in solid WI4 condition. Hard steep ice gave him a workout I think. Great climb. While I was cleaning it I also got a great show looking across the gully at Greg H. tackle "Knight to Bishop" which I'd say was in questionable shape. It's pillar wasn't touched down by much and made a sickly hollow noise with each strike. As Greg made it about 4 m up a crack split across the main pillar... which led to a swift descent. First time I've seen a climber swinging from a single point of ice contact. Exciting. I wish I'd had a video. Text seems like it doesn't do the scene any justice.

Hope to report lots more ice yet this year!

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