Sunday, May 18, 2014

Control your Fear, Place your Gear, Earn your Beer!

Yeah... that's a leopard tube top at the crag.
Climbing partners are worth their weight in gold, or DMM offset brass nuts... whatever works for you. For me, the equation balances when a person's willing to learn, willing to teach you new tricks, and is focused on a mix of improvement and fun. Despite appearing like a total gong-show in this image, and despite chucking various objects at me from heights half the day yesterday, I vouch that Sonia is a really good climbing partner. 

Both of us jumped at early-season opportunity yesterday on what was a busy, perfect weather climbing day at Cochrane lane yesterday. Sonia led About a Rope which is a terrific moderate and is no means a walk-up. The leader's got to think about rope drag, ledges, protecting the second on traverse, and a high crux that's got tough gear to place at the grade. Get on it if it's at your grade!

Small cams can hold big mans!

At the end of the afternoon I jumped on Sticky Fingers despite having wimpy fingers from a winter of non-climbing (ice doesn't do much for crimp strength or tip toughness). After doing a better than I expected I found myself through the thin crux and placing a final blind piece from a secure finger lock. Clipped er' and just as I was committing to the final move my smear blew. This old yellow TCU... one of my oldest pieces held like a champ. Not that it was a big fall (8' or so)... but the first one of the year always feels bigger than reality. Beer earned!

We weren't the only climbers around yesterday, the place was full of locals, visitors, men, women, and even a very psyched kid out for a hike. Cars were parked to the end of the field and lots of people were thinking about goals for the season. What are your goals for this year? 

Sonia leading Sparky Start

Happy to top out About a Rope

Tracy over on Pass the Moonshine


  1. Sounds like a fun day Chris! Got me stoked to climb in Halifax this summer... Just need to find a good climbing partner me thinks.

  2. Do it Nova Scotians! I hear that there are lots of nice cracks surrounding the Halifax area Christian!