Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Memorable Pitches of 2009

Browsed through my climbing log today and easily picked out my top 10 favourite pitches of 2009. They clearly stood out above the rest:
  • Leviathan, Welsford - my first clean 5.11 lead.
  • High Exposure, Gunks - this line could just as easily be labelled Great Expectations from all hype surrounding it but it seemed to follow through.
  • Warm & Sultry, Welsford - my first 5.9 lead on gear.
  • Weeping Whisker, Welsford - this is likely to get my vote for the best route in NB. Finally lead.
  • Victory Cabbage, Sunnyside - a climb which Erick and I made the first ascent of on top rope two years ago, I was unable to get it clean on lead last year. This summer it finally went down. I find it quite technical.
  • Dynamic Duo, Welsford - a great crack which I'd previously never climbed. Onsight.
  • Ménage a Trois, Welsford - this line is the most valuable addition to NB climbing this year. Fred's unearthing of Waterwalk to lead into Astroboy Direct and finish atop the detached pillar high above the L-Shape.
  • Black Lung, Cathedral Ledge - a classic crack that has interesting moves and bomber gear. Onsight.
  • Inferno, Whitehorse Ledge - perfect hand crack with big exposure. Very memorable lead. Just be sure to get somebody else to lead Hotter than Hell on your way up.
  • Rockstar, Welsford - a sustained line with every style of climbing imaginable all stuffed into 30 m. The old pin needs to be replaced but makes for a spicy lead.
...and a few pitches I'd rather let fade into obscurity:
  • Ride a Cock Horse, Welsford - dirty & awkward. Don't let Fred con you into leading this one with 'everybody has to do this at least once'. Next year it'll be Precious at the cave.
  • Lower Refuse, Cathedral Ledge - dirty & awkward for two pitches. Seriously... just wait in line for Bombardment or Fun House. Even following the party of 5 who was there just ahead of us would have been better.
  • Nuclear Sausage Particle, Sunnyside - although partially responsible for awarding this line it's ridiculous name, I'd never climbed it prior to last fall. Likely never again. YMMV.

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