Making Progress

Making lots of progress this week!

On the climbing side I've fired off 6 climbs at 5.10 or better. Started it off with a clean lead of Jai Voile ta Blonde which at 5.10+ felt pretty good... my highest graded gear lead to date. What a nice climb! Although I complained about the bolts within clipping distance of the crack I didn't bother clipping either. When I got into the business I just got tunnel-visioned on the perfect crack and opted for the bomber cam placement overhead rather than the bolt to the left. Aaron D. had a go at it beforehand and also cruised it save for a one-hang. Afterwards, I was feeling pretty strong and we headed to Sticky Fingers. That turned out to be pressing my luck for the day. I scraped up it but it wasn't pretty. A dropped set of nuts, a lot of hanging on cams, and a lot of foul language. There's even a video of the debacle floating around somewhere that I'll try and post up here in the next few days. Later on in the week I think I got back on track with a great evening session at Sunnyside with Chris and Stef. The 3 of us climbed a combined 23 pitches in 3 hours. I got clean a 10a, two 10b's (including an onsight of Adam Smasher), and a 10c. That's a decent night for me. Also installed a new set of quick-clips to Entanglement while I was there.

On the bike project front I got a lot of progress done as well. The frame has been stripped bare and all salvageable parts have been cleaned inside out. The fork has been stripped of paint and the frame is set to go over the weekend. I'm leaning to either painting it gunmetal grey or some type of ninja-turtle green? I'm also getting heat to turn it into a single-speed but no decisions will be made until it's painted. All for now.